We stopped by Pirunpesä

27/11/2025

Savo newspaper 23 November 1950.


Indeed, such a local attraction can be found in Tuovilanlahti in Maaninka. Tuovilanlahti itself is already in summer one of Finland’s most beautiful sights, known and acknowledged among travellers. After separating from the Maaninka open waters under the watch of Haukkakallio, the bay continues as a 5 km long, narrow stretch with high shores. A kilometre before the innermost cove of the bay lies the steep Pirunpesänkallio, and in it the aforementioned Pirunpesä. It is a rock cave, with an opening about one metre wide, three and a half metres high, and large enough for a man to enter for about five metres. The cave does continue further on as a narrow urn-like passage, but it is no longer possible to squeeze into it. Judging by the inscriptions on the walls, many visitors have already been to this Devil’s Nest, and even more are those who have been content to look without trying to enter. There is no information on how this rock formation got its name, but in the days of regular boat traffic all the ships would sound their arrival horn to Tuovilanlahti at this spot. Perhaps to disturb the devil’s mealtime rest.

There was a visit to Korkeakoski as well. It too is one of Tuovilanlahti’s attractions. Near the rapids stands a joint tourist lodge of the Finnish Tourist Association, the Kuopio section, and the Nature Conservation Association. A sign on the wall of the lodge states that the height of the Korkeakoski waterfall is 46 metres. The rapids are located 3 km from Tuovilanlahti along the Pielavesi road, within a 12-hectare nature reserve. At this late-autumn time, when the water is very low, the place does not make a particularly strong impression. The water skips between the stones and is partly covered with thin ice, but in spring it is surely a memorable sight. The same goes for summer, when there is a constant coolness and shade in the gorge amid lush vegetation. It is said that only shortly before Midsummer do the last patches of ice melt away from the shadows of the gorge.

There, near the rapids, on the threshold of winter, there was another sight: a little cottage with window shutters woven from straw. Such shutters were once used in Karelia, and it was a Karelian who had now given advice there for protection against severe frosts. If the houses were lost in Karelia, the tricks remained in Savo to be used, could be said of this elderly evacuee’s way of keeping the frost at bay.

People rack their brains trying to come up with suitable tourist routes for foreigners for the Olympic year. A Kuopio–Tuovilanlahti trip by water bus would be one recommendation. There would be plenty to feast even the most demanding eye on: Kallavesi–Maaninka open waters–Tuovilanlahti. One could stop at the Pirunpesä rock bar, once arranged as such, to taste kalakukko and drink cool churned buttermilk in the shady trough of Korkeakoski. Indeed, that would suit just about anyone.

The guest books of Korkeakoski were browsed through. Thousands of visitors had come to see the rapids, but no foreign name from this year happened to catch the eye, whereas in the previous year several had visited, and on several occasions. Already more than half a century ago, a group from Kuopio had the habit of spending their weekends at Korkeakoski. After viewing the rapids, they always lodged at Mykkälä in Tuovilanlahti and, having bathed thoroughly in the sauna, eaten and rested, they returned on Monday, refreshed, to the weekday routine in the city. Among the permanent residents of Tuovilanlahti it is an established custom that everyone who is able goes in spring to see the famous rapids. And in their springtime surge there is indeed something to see, as well as a roar to hear in the ears.

So there was a visit to Korkeakoski and a stop at Pirunpesä.

Anssi

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